THE ADVENTURER - HARD ANODISED & HOBO STOVE
The hard anodized aluminium provides all of the same great characteristics of a Ghillie Kettle with added protection and durability. In addition to being scratch resistant the kettle is easier to clean and has all of the benefits of stainless steel, but is cheaper and, importantly when camping, is much lighter. It also has a smooth non-stick, non-reactive surface and is quicker to boil, heat food and clean.
Includes Hobo Stove.
The kettle is guaranteed for 10 years, subject to normal wear and tear
Provides approximately 5 Mugs of water in minutes and is the largest type we make.
Holds up to 1.42ltrs
Height: 34cm / 13inchs
Width: 18.5cm / 7.3inchs (at its widest point)
Comes with its own hard wearing carry bag.
Ideal for ANY outdoor activity especially: Camping, Hiking, Fishing, Building Sites,
"HARD ANODIZING" EXPLAINED
The Result of Hard Anodising is that you get a thicker stronger coating which is approximately 2-4 times stronger than the normal Anodising process. It's as close as you can get to titanium while still using an easily machinable aluminum and stronger than stainless steel, with the added benefits of being lighter (a necessity when camping or travelling long distances) boiling water quicker and, importantly, unlike stainless steel, it won't rust!
All of our Anodised Kettles use the Hard Anodisation process, and the Ghillie Kettle company are proud to say that this is the most durable kettle to date.
Anodisation is primarily used to toughen up the outer shell of the aluminum and is also an easy way to add color to your piece. What the process actually does is creates a aluminium hydroxide layer on the surface of the metal. After the process is complete the aluminum is no longer susceptible to nicks and scratches to the surfaces because the pores of the metal have tightened up creating a harder surface.
There are 3 types of Anodisation
Type I - is a specialist anodising using chromic or phosphoric acid instead of sulphuric acid,.
Type II - is the Anodising that can be done in a garage, using sulfuric acid and coloured dyes.
Type III - is hard coat Anodisation, or Hard Anodising. Requires a more controlled environment.
Type III or Hard Anodising is performed with a weaker solution of sulfuric acid, and a lower temperature acid bath. Normally for Type II anodising we have our acid bath around 60-70 degrees fahrenheit. The temperature often rises during the anodising process. For type III hard Anodising, the temperature must be at 35-40 degrees. The acid bath must be constantly mixed, otherwise a warm layer of acid will build up around the piece. The electric current will be much higher, perhaps 20 amps per sq foot. This requires bath mixing machines and cooling equipment.